Tragedy on Makalu: Phurba Ongel Sherpa Dies, Iranian Client Missing

ByLal Gurung on 20 Jan, 2026

A tragic incident has shaken Nepal’s mountaineering community as a fatal accident occurred on Mount Makalu (8,485 meters), the world’s fifth-highest peak, during the ongoing spring climbing season. Veteran high-altitude guide Phurba Ongel Sherpa has died, while an Iranian climber remains missing following the same incident, according to preliminary reports.

Experienced Sherpa Guide Dies During Summit Preparation

Phurba Ongel Sherpa, a respected and experienced guide in Nepal’s Himalayan expedition industry, was reportedly involved in summit preparations when the incident occurred. Known for his extensive experience in high-altitude climbing, he had guided numerous expeditions across Nepal’s most challenging peaks.

Sources from the expedition team suggest that severe weather conditions, combined with Makalu’s highly technical terrain, may have contributed to the fatal incident. However, the exact cause of the accident is still under investigation.

His death is a devastating loss for Nepal’s mountaineering sector, where Sherpa guides play a crucial role in ensuring the safety and success of international climbers.

Iranian Climber Missing as Search Operations Continue

In the same incident, an Iranian climber who was part of the expedition has gone missing. Rescue teams have been deployed, but search efforts are facing major challenges due to extreme altitude, poor visibility, and avalanche-prone slopes.

Authorities have not yet released the identity of the missing climber. Officials state that ongoing weather instability is slowing down rescue operations, reducing the chances of immediate recovery.

Mount Makalu: One of the Most Dangerous 8000m Peaks

Mount Makalu is considered one of the most difficult and technical mountains among the world’s 14 peaks above 8,000 meters. Located in eastern Nepal near the border with Tibet, the mountain is known for:

  • Steep and exposed ridges

  • Technical rock and ice climbing sections

  • Unpredictable and rapidly changing weather

  • High avalanche risk

Even for experienced climbers and Sherpa guides, Makalu presents extreme challenges that require advanced skills, endurance, and careful planning.

Sherpa Community Mourns the Loss

The death of Phurba Ongel Sherpa has sent shockwaves across Nepal’s climbing fraternity. Fellow guides, expedition operators, and tourism professionals have expressed deep sorrow over the loss.

Sherpa guides are widely regarded as the backbone of Himalayan expeditions. They take on the most dangerous responsibilities, including fixing ropes, carrying heavy loads, and leading climbers through high-risk zones.

This tragic incident once again highlights the risks and sacrifices made by Nepal’s Sherpa community in the pursuit of adventure tourism.

Ongoing Investigation and Updates Expected

Authorities and expedition organizers are currently gathering detailed information about the incident. As search and rescue efforts continue for the missing Iranian climber, further updates are expected in the coming days.

This tragedy on Mount Makalu serves as a stark reminder of the dangers of high-altitude mountaineering, even for the most experienced professionals.

Lal Gurung

Lal Gurung

Lal Gurung is the founder and author of Nepal Intrepid Treks with 20 years of Himalayan experience. Born in a beautiful village in Dhading, Nepal, he developed a deep connection with nature and the Himalayas from a young age. He began his career in the trekking industry as a porter, later becoming a professional trekking guide, and eventually an entrepreneur after years of experience in the mountains.

Lal has traveled across many trekking regions of Nepal and has climbed peaks such as Island Peak (6,189 m) and Mera Peak (6,476 m) several times. With extensive knowledge of Nepal’s geography, culture, and trekking routes, he shares valuable insights and practical advice through his articles to help travelers explore the Himalayas safely and responsibly.

Beyond tourism, Lal also supports local communities by helping children with education and contributing to social initiatives in rural villages. His dedication, leadership, and passion for Nepal’s mountains continue to inspire travelers and young people interested in Nepal’s tourism industry.

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